Bali

When Chris visited Kuta in 2004, he didn’t enjoy his experience: touts wouldn’t leave him alone, robbery was common, money exchange would short-change you, relaxing on the beach was impossible as kids started making you bracelets despite protests, and most restaurants only served nasi goreng (fried rice). Our expectations were pretty low when we flew into Kuta, but we were pleasantly surprised by the overall clean-up of the place. After a bit of an expensive taxi ride from the airport, we quickly found a hotel on Gang I, one of the popular backpacking alleys near the beach. The tree-lined pool was the decision making factor, as prices were competitive and room standards similar.

Kuta’s long sandy beach is lovely for lazy strolls, getting crowded only at sunset when everyone gathers for a Bintang. All day long, cool surfers dudes paddle in the waves and tanned bums lay in the sand, scattered. There are a few stretches busier with beach chairs, but most of the beach is quiet enough. The majority of restaurants on the beach front are upscale or slightly overpriced for our backpacker budget, but getting lost around the alleys will surely take you to endless cheap eateries. In the morning, we loved our long runs on the empty boardwalk which follows the beach. For just under 5km you can run from Kuta to Legian until Seminyak. Leaving at 6:30 or 7:00 seemed like a perfect timing as streets were nearly empty and the air still cool and fresh. Many runners seem to prefer the beach, for obvious reasons, but I find jogging on sand very difficult so I opt for the easier pavement. The near-perfect conditions helped me reach my goal of a 10km run!

Lovely sand on Kuta Beach

Sunset on Kuta Beach

A huge change from Java is the seemingly absent Islam. Indeed, Bali is mostly Hindu and lovely shrines adorn every single hotel or restaurant. In the morning, intricately decorated offerings are put both on the ground (to distract evil spirits) and in shrines (for the good spirits) with scented incense sticks. As well as adding mysticism and charm to the streets, the artistic offerings seem eco-friendly, made primarily of banana leaves, flowers and rice, although the old ones are left over to dry and rarely swept away.

Offerings on the floor

Old and new - in need of a sweep!

It was to our surprise that we booked a third night in Kuta, everything too easy, a much needed break after roughing it in Java, indulging in a real little piece of holiday! As for the famous nightlife, I have to admit we completely skipped it, too relaxed to even consider drinking and staying up past 11pm! Tough life…