Paradise Cave and Eco Trail

For our second day in the evergreen jungle of Phong Nha, we went to visit the longest dry cave in the world, Paradise Cave. Situated 14 km outside of Son Trach, the cave can be reached by motorbike taxi, which we hired in the town centre. We enjoyed the bike ride on the wide, empty roads. Strangely, the National Park is strictly guarded by the Vietnamese military and access is limited. Apparently, some tourists can be turned back and refused entrance. The guards did seem unhappy to let us in, but finally approved, after talking with our drivers. It seems like an odd reaction, one would think foreign visitors, which are rare in this part of Vietnam, would be welcomed more openly as they bring income to the place. 

Once we got to the entrance of the park, we decided to purchase the electric buggie ride to take us from the ticket office to the bottom of the 500 step staircase, consciously saving our energy.

Paradise Cave was quite impressive, built-up with a boardwalk to explore deep inside. We were allowed to go 1 km deep. Stalagmites and stalactites adorned the cave which is in fact 31 km long. Unfortunately, tour groups shouting and tour guides with their microphones did ruin the experience for us. We would have liked the other tourists to feel as serene as us and enjoy the deep silence experienced in such a huge cave. At least we had some moments of peace and took our time to explore slowly, letting groups pass in front and trying to soak up the experience as much as possible. 

After the tour, we hopped back on our motorbikes and drove to Nuoc Mooc Eco trail for a nice trek in the Vietnamese heat! We walked along the turquoise river, through little bamboo bridges. 

We heard there were some clear water streams to bathe in and found a nice spot to swim. Despite the voracious mosquitoes, we had a good time cooling off in the middle of the forest.

Phong Nha and Tien Son Cave

After a night in the village on Son Trach, we set off to find where to purchase tickets for the boat which would take us to the famous caves we were there to visit. We found a small log cabin by the water, which sold boat trips on the Son river for 220,000 don, taking us to Phong Nha cave. We navigated through the countryside on a small, wooden motor boat, past bathing buffalos and green hills. We even saw a church!

Once we got to the entrance of the grotto, the engine was cut off and we got paddled through the cavern, adorned by cheesy lights with dimmers and colour changes.

We got to walk through parts of the cave and feel the cool humidity. Once outside, we climbed up the 300 steps towards a second cave called Tien Son Cave. 

We enjoyed the exercise and the view on the valley we got from up high.

Overall, the excursion lasted about 3 hours, including the boat trip and exploring both caves. There are vendors selling drinks along the way which is useful as the humidity is quite tiring.

Off the beaten track in Phong Nha-Ke Ban

We definitely wanted to visit the main sites of the Vietnam, but we chose the road less traveled when we stopped in Phong Nha. That, and it was a practical pit stop between the midlands and northern Vietnam. Not only is it a national park, it’s also a Unesco World Heritage Site. The main attractions are its caves and grottoes.

We had to take a train from Hue (on hard, wooden seats) in coaches packed with locals who ate funky smelling snack and smoked cigarettes. Some elderly people actually laid-down on the floor underneath the seats to rest during the journey. Luckily, the ride to Dong Hoi was only 4 hours. We then intended to transfer from the train to a local bus which would have taken us to Son Trach village in two hours (100 km). Unfortunately, there was no train running that day, but as things often work out, we had befriended the only two other tourists on the train and found out we were both heading to Phong Nha. We were then able to afford a private taxi ride which was affordable enough and avoided an overnight stay in the port town.

When we arrived in Son Trach Village, we were quite surprised to be dropped off on a highway looking street, lined with a few shops and couple of hotels. It was literally a ghost town.  We settled in the hotel which had the best value and looked for somewhere to eat... only one restaurant was opened! We later found out that every restaurant in town had the exact same menu printed in English. We ended up eating at the same place every day as it all looked a bit dodgy.

We had been warned by our Lonely Planet that Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park could be hard to access as information is very limited on the ground and some officials can be less than helpful to independent travellers. Indeed, we witnessed first hand that the main income comes from organised tours which arrive in big buses and head straight to the caves. This explains why the village was deserted. The next day, we would set to explore the park with our new acquaintances. 

Hué

A Unesco World Heritage site, Hue has palaces and pagodas, tombs and temples, culture and cuisine. Even though many of its finest buildings were destroyed during the American War, crumbling century-old Citadel walls are still fascinating to explore. Tourism has brought an excess of touts but Hue remains a relaxed and conservative city. Its location on the Perfume River make it a nice town to wander around, especially on bicycle.  Our main activity there was visiting the Citadel, built between 1805 and 1832, which housed the Nguyen dynasty for centuries. It was a little bit confusing to understand all the history that took place between these walls but many royal families and their servants inhabited the citadel before being destroyed in the war.

Apart from visiting the citadel, another popular activity in Hue is the cruise on the Perfume River. There are also many bars and restaurants to explore!

Dreamy Hoi An

Nothing enticed me more than the thought of biking around Hoi An. Famous for its tailor shops and colourful bridges, Hoi An has a rich history and grand architecture which make it an essential stop for travelers in Vietnam. It is indeed a very important tourist destination and one of the nation’s most wealthy towns, right at the centre of the country.

Don't be scared to venture out of the main walking area and explore Hoi An out of the beaten track

Old Town

Walking Streets

   Our first stop was finding a tailor shop. We had read many recommendations from Trip Advisor and Chris was eager to have trousers and shirts custom made to wear at the office. Hanoi Old Town must have over one thousand tailor shops to choose from so it’s really a strike of luck whether you pick a good one or a bad one. Chris went to Mr Xe and he was happy with the product and service.

Chris in front of his tailor shop

Our main mode of transportation was a bicycle which we rented for 1$ (20,000 Vietnamese dong) a day... Quite a bargain! Most of the old town is comprised of “walking streets” so it is easy to navigate. Our longest trip was to the local beach which was beautiful, but mostly we would wander around the small streets and admire the architecture.

Cycling around the old town

Hoi An Old Town

 Fresh beer (bia hoi) was introduced to us in Hoi An, but it is popular all throughout the country. People brew their own beer in barrels and sell it in bars and restaurants at a ridiculously low price of approximately 3,000 dong per glass, the equivalent of 15 cents! It is a very light lager of only 3% alcohol and does not contain preservatives. Perfect after biking around town. Cheers!

Barrel of fresh beer

Food in Hoi An is very distinct because it is prepared with water from Ba Le village’s famous well. The water has a unique flavour, with a yellow hue. One signature dish which is particularly popular is cao lau, noodles with slices of pork, pork crackling on lettuce, bean sprouts and fresh herbs. What makes it special, of course, is the stock made from the famous well water. 

Street food - Don't fear it... try it!

Nha Trang, Vietnam's beach party capital

The holiday town of Nha Trang is a good party place and sun-soaking destination, probably the best place to go for a 2 week holiday in the country. With many islands nearby, boat trips and diving are popular activities. Parks and sculptures are aligned along the long stretch of beach and the city’s high rise buildings, 5 star hotels and stylish restaurants make for a cosmopolitan scene.

We thoroughly enjoyed soaking up the sun in Nha Trang and exploring the city after sunset. There was a nice night market to sample local treats and friendly bars where expats meet locals. Definitely a nice little holiday resort.

Soaking the sun in Nha Trang

Highly groomed trees adorn the boardwalk by the sea

High rise buildings meet white sand beach and turquoise water

Central highlands - Dalat

Dalat, in the mountains, is described as Vietnam’s alter ego, with its spring cold weather and French-colonial architecture. The temperature was indeed very cool and it took some getting used to! Dalat’s climate is conducive to growing plenty fruits and vegetables, so walking around the colourful market was interesting – but watch your step, many rats roam around!

Park in Dalat

Fresh produce at the market

Dalat wine is famous and served all over Vietnam. The red wine is light and very affordable. Another item to buy in Dalat is coffee. Vietnamese coffee is exported all over the world and ca phe chon is literally translated as weasel coffee. Coffee beans are fed to weasels, then harvested from their droppings! The city’s major markets sell this curious delicacy.

This bodum-like contraption is used to brew coffee right in front on your table - a long process. It is served with hot water to dilute, according to taste.

Hang Nga Crazy House

Architecture lovers will enjoy visiting the Crazy House, designed by Mrs Dang Viet Nga. It echoes the style of Antonio Gaudi and resembles an intricate mix of trees, grottos and other natural habitats. There are strangely decorated 10 rooms scattered through a maze of tunnels, bridges and ladders. It is even possible to book a room and spend a few nights! Most visitors, however, choose a short visit and pay the small entrance fee to wander in this crazy building.

This reminded me of Gaudi "melting" looking buildings

Wonderland castle

Mui Ne

Our Vietnamese trip began in HCMC in southern Vietnam, and we were flying out of Hanoi. Our journey up North started with a bus ride from the capital to Mui Ne, a cosmopolitan beach destination.

The layout of Mui Ne is very strange and unattractive : everything is spread out along the 10km stretch of highway. If you are trying to locate a specific hotel or restaurant, you will be told it’s “next to Km 12” or “just before Km 9”. For us spoiled Thai residents, Mui Ne beach wasn’t as stunning as we expected. In fact, we didn’t even swim in the sea, but the activities we did made up for it.

Mui Ne

Fairy Spring

The Fairy Spring flows through a patch of dunes with intricate sand and rock formations. It's a beautiful trek winding through the jungle. Local youth skip school to make a few dongs and walk next to you as unofficial guides. The sight was truly magical but we didn’t spot any fairies.

One very strange activity offered on the banks of the Fairy Stream is ostrich riding!! Cruel isn’t it? I can’t imagine the pleasure of sitting on such a magnificent bird and getting it to walk around. Very peculiar..

The Fairy Spring

Red sand dunes and rock formations at the Fairy Spring

Sand Dunes

There are two different set of sand dunes famous to Mui Ne, “The White Sand Dunes” and “The Red Sand Dunes”.  We woke up at 4am in order to watch the sunrise on the White Sand Dunes. The experience was well worth it. The desert-like scenery was peaceful and unforgettable.

Sunrise on the White Sand Dunes

Unfortunately, the peace and quiet of the place got ruined when rowdy tourists arrived in quad bikes. At the Red Sand Dunes, many local youths hang around to offer sand-sledding with homemade plastic sleds.

Peaceful sand dunes

Fishing Village

Mui Ne is a fishing village at heart and seeing it all in action is a must. The spaceship like boats are quite a sight and the dozen of women squatting while opening scallops help anchor the hardships of their daily work. Huge quantities of shrimps and other fish are dumped in baskets and put on motorbikes before being zoomed away and sold in the city’s markets and restaurants. The scorching sun burns on the workers even at the early morning hours. I can’t imagine how exhausted they must feel at the end of the day!

Transferring shrimps onto the motorbike

Woman opening scallops

Women hard at work

Strange looking circular boats

We were a bit put off by the amount of seafood laying in the hot sun at the Fishing village, so we opted out of the seafood shacks for dinner. Instead, for a popular local experience, we ventured to the “goat restaurants” in Ham Tien. We shared barbecued goat and goat hotpot, with fresh herbs and noodles. The beer is served with warm but accompanied by ice buckets. Overall, another nice evening.

Vietnamese Food

Traditional Vietnamese cooking is known for its fresh ingredients, minimal use of oil, and reliance on fresh herbs, and is considered one of the healthiest cuisines worldwide. While traveling in Vietnam, I could not get enough of “Bun Thit Nuong”, rice vermicelli garnished with basil, mint, peanuts, grilled meat and spring rolls. With a splash of sauce (sweet and sour fish sauce), this dish makes for a filling and fresh meal. I have since found the recipe online and often try to replicate it at home. It’s not that hard to make, but I can’t seem to make it as yummy as the ones I ate in the country’s food stalls.

Bun Thit Nuong, my favourite dish

In our guide books and through general word of mouth, we were told that dog meat is commonly sold in Vietnam. I had made sure to learn the Vietnamese word for “dog” and looked out for it on menus (to avoid it – obviously!). In the little village of Bac Ha in northern Vietnam, I went to a tiny local place and tried to order from the strictly Vietnamese menu. I knew “bun” meant vermicelli noodles so I went for “bun cho” which I thought was noodles with beef.

When I received the dish, the dark, brown meat looked anything but appetizing. I was surrounded by hungry locals, devouring their soup bowls, so I tried not to make a scene. I put a couple of noodles in my mouth and quickly tried to swallow it. The taste was awful. After a few more attempts and after subtly throwing most of the meat to the street dogs wandering around, I quietly made my way to the waitress to pay her. I was trying not to be impolite and to hide the fact that I barely touched the meal. I left the restaurant, relieved, and slowly made my way back to my hotel. I kept repeating to myself “bun cho..., bun cho... I’m sure I’ve ordered this before, so why was it so disgusting?”. Suddenly, the truth glared down on me : it was “bun bo!” which I had eaten before... “bo” means beef but “cho” is for DOG!!! I ran up to my room to get my guide book and confirmed what I had feared – I had just ordered dog meat!!!!

The Socialist Republic of Vietnam

Before traveling to Vietnam, I had a general understanding of the history of the country, especially with regards to the Vietnam war, but I didn’t realise the country was still socialist today.

The First Indochina War, fought between December 1946 and August 1954, was a struggle between the Viet Minh and the French for control of the country. It eventually led to the expulsion of the French in 1954, leaving Vietnam divided politically into two states, North and South Vietnam. I thought Vietnam would have kept a French flavour but I didn’t feel that influence. I didn’t get the sense that Vietnamese wanted to have anything to do with their French heritage, which is understandable I suppose.

Photographed in HCMC

North Vietnam was supported by the Chinese, while South Vietnam was supported by Americans. Conflict between the two sides intensified, and heavy foreign intervention made for a dramatic conflict. North Vietnam was victorious in 1975 and the war finally ended. The country was then unified under a communist government, but was politically isolated and impoverished. In 1986, the government initiated a series of reforms, which helped Vietnam integrate the world economy. The government encouraged private ownership of farms and factories, and foreign investment. 

Photographed in HCMC

Despite pursuing economic reform and embracing capitalism, the ruling Communist Party shows little willingness to give up its monopoly on political power. Indeed, Vietnam is one of the four remaining communist country in the world today.

When visiting the country, you can feel the government control over the culture and media. Facebook, for instance, was blocked in most cities. There are easy ways to bypass this by downloading simple programs that block your IP address, but the idea is still that social media websites are not encouraged. Though the government of Vietnam claims to safeguard the country against obscene or sexually explicit content through its blocking efforts, many politically and religiously sensitive websites are also banned.

Furthermore, propaganda posters are scattered around town and Uncle Ho’s face dominates the cities, from South to North! Even in the little remote villages there were Ho Chi Minh posters around and red was omnipresent.

Propaganda posters in HCMC

   

Posters of Ho Chi Minh in the small, mountain town of Bac Ha, in northern Vietnam

* I do apologize to anyone reading this who might feel my writing is an inaccurate description of the events. I am no historian and I have not studied this in detail. It is my own simple account and attempt of a summary on a much more complicated history. *